Real Vegans wear espadrilles
Real Vegans wear espadrilles
Bert Eelen
Shoes are a major source of environmental headaches. Most shoes consist of various types of plastic glued or sewn together that are difficult to separate afterwards. Synthetic leather, vulcanized rubber, glue, foam: these are all materials that work well together in the factory, but never separate once the shoe is worn out. The result is a mountain of waste that remains in a landfill for generations.
In that sense, espadrilles are a breath of fresh air. It is one of the oldest shoe types in Europe — archaeologists have found examples that are more than four thousand years old (1) — and the basic construction has hardly changed since then. A braided sole of natural jute or rope, an upper of canvas, linen, or suede, and some yarn to hold it all together. No glue needed, no plastic, no exotic materials. That is precisely why espadrilles are the shoe par excellence for those who are environmentally conscious and, in many cases, also for those who prefer not to wear animal materials. Why espadrilles are useful
Biodegradable. The jute sole is made of plant fibers that naturally disappear in nature. Therefore, a discarded espadrille burdens the earth for a much shorter time than a sneaker full of EVA foam and synthetic leather.
Few and simple raw materials. While a sports shoe sometimes consists of twenty different parts, an espadrille has only a handful: sole, upper, yarn, and possibly a bit of rubber for extra grip. Fewer parts mean less energy, water, and chemicals during production.
Breathable and lightweight. Jute and canvas allow air to pass through, preventing your feet from becoming damp and hot like in a synthetic shoe. This is a major advantage for the summer.
Often handmade. Many brands still have their espadrilles sewn by hand, often by local artisans. This keeps traditional craftsmanship alive and provides employment in regions where this shoe has been made for centuries, such as the Spanish and French Basque Country.
Repairable. Because everything is sewn rather than glued, a skilled shoemaker can replace a worn sole relatively easily, whereas a glued sneaker usually ends up in the trash can in its entirety.
How espadrilles are made
Traditionally, the making of an espadrille consists of a number of fixed steps, which you can still find in artisanal brands.
**Weaving the sole.** Rope made of jute, sisal, or esparto grass (the plant that gave the shoe its name) is braided or woven into a flat, round, or oval sole shape. In traditional models, this is done entirely by hand; for larger productions, a machine assists.
**Vulcanizing or reinforcing.** To make the sole more water-resistant and durable, a thin layer of natural or vulcanized rubber is often attached underneath.
**Making the upper.** Canvas, linen, suede leather, or cotton is cut and sewn into a shoe shape. This is where the brand's style comes to the fore: a classic model with ribbons around the ankle, a closed slip-on, a platform sole, or an elegant wedge heel.
Sewing together. The upper is sewn to the jute sole by hand or machine. This is the most labor-intensive part and what distinguishes a good espadrille from a cheap one: a dense, regular stitch ensures sturdiness and a longer lifespan.
Finishing. An insole, possibly a small amount of lining, and the final quality check before the shoe reaches the store.
That entire process requires little heavy industry and relatively little energy compared to the production of rubber or plastic shoes — another reason why espadrilles have a more favorable ecological footprint.
Brands that continue the tradition
Although the basic idea is the same everywhere, each brand puts its own spin on it. Here is an overview of six brands that shape the espadrille today.
Castañer (Spain)
Castañer is perhaps the most famous espadrille brand in the world. It was founded in 1927 by Luis Castañer and his cousin Tomás Serra in Banyoles, a Catalan town with a long tradition of espadrille craftsmanship, and has since become the benchmark for the chic wedge espadrille worldwide — especially after Yves Saint Laurent collaborated with the brand in the 1970s, turning the espadrille wedge into a fashion phenomenon. Castañer still makes its espadrilles by hand in its own Spanish workshops and uses jute, which the brand itself describes as more durable and stronger than esparto grass, combined with linen, canvas, corduroy, cotton, satin or leather for the upper. In addition to classic flat models, the brand is best known for its wedge espadrilles for women and men.
Abarca Shoes (Spain)
120,00€
Abarca Shoes is a Spanish brand that crafts alpargatas — the Spanish name for espadrilles — and esparteñas from jute in Spain. In addition to classic braided models, Abarca also produces bluchers, moccasins, and typical Menorquinas sandals, always using jute as the starting point for the sole. The brand emphasizes its local production and works with regional support programs to further export its craft.
Bohonomad (Turkey)
Bohonomad makes 100% handmade, vegan rope sandals — known as "Jesus sandals" — for men, women, and children. The brand explicitly positions itself as eco-friendly, vegan, and socially responsible: the sandals are made by women in Turkey, which offers them financial independence. The soles are made of natural rubber, making them water-resistant and suitable for sand, mud, and salt water.
Lagoa World (Italy)
€153.00
Lagoa World is an Italian brand that produces rope-soled shoes, ranging from classic moccasins to nautical loafers with vulcanized rope soles. The brand combines suede and leather uppers with the traditional rope construction, targeting a somewhat more sophisticated, fashion-conscious customer who still wishes to retain the artisanal foundation of the espadrille.
Vidorreta (Spain)
89,90 €
Since 1995, Vidorreta has been a Spanish family business producing fully handmade "Made in Spain" alpargatas and espardeñas. The brand places a strong emphasis on craftsmanship ("cosidos a mano"), focusing on water-repellent jute and thermal protection in its latest collections, and also positions itself as ecologically conscious with the slogan "conciencia ecológica."
Maison de l'Espadrille (France)
21,90 €
Maison de l'Espadrille is a French family business dating back to 1960, founded in the southwest of France. The brand produces over 300,000 classic and playful espadrilles annually, featuring both machine-stitched and fully hand-stitched ("cousu main") models, and also includes an organic line and slippers in its range.
Bayona (France)
€35.00
Bayona is an artisanal brand from Saint-Jean-de-Luz in the French Basque Country, with roots going back to 1890. The brand emphatically emphasizes the Basque tradition of the espadrille, with hand-stitched models, a natural rope sole, and careful material selection designed to ensure suppleness and durability. In addition to traditional espadrilles, Bayona also offers wedge heels, moccasins, and sneakers with the same braided base.
In conclusion
Espadrilles prove that a shoe does not have to be complicated to be beautiful, comfortable, and functional. By returning to natural fibers and artisanal construction methods, brands such as Abarca, Bohonomad, Lagoa World, Vidorreta, Maison de l'Espadrille, and Bayona offer an alternative to the disposable shoe industry — without compromising on style. Those who choose espadrilles are choosing a piece of footwear history that reinvents itself time and again, without betraying its ecological principles.
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